Digital Gastronomy
When an IBM algorithm cooks, things get complicatedâ€"and tasty.
Prop styling: Laurie Raab |
Justin Fantl
IBM’s AI-like computer systems aren’t limited to Watson, the Jeopardy-winning supercomputer that schooled Ken Jennings on national television. In fact, IBM researchers foresee a not-so-distant future when algorithms will be a replacement for inefficient customer service models, a diagnostic tool for doctors, and believe it or not, chefs.
Researcher Lav Varshney has already built an algorithm that creates recipes from parameters like cuisine type, dietary restrictions, and course. The system determines optimal mixtures based on three things: tens of thousands of recipes taken from sources like the Institute of Culinary Education or the Internet, a database of hedonic psychophysics (what humans like to eat), and food chemistry. Right now, the result is like a preâ€"Julia Child cookbook, providing chefs, who already know cooking basics, with suggestions for billions of ingredient combinations but no instructions.
To test its skill, we pitted IBM’s algorithm against go-to-recipe resource Epicurious (owned by WIRED’s parent company, Condé Nast). We searched the site for a Caribbean plantain dessert and found a tasty concoction with rum and coconut sauce. With the same parameters, IBM’s computer generated a list of about 50 ingredients, including orange, papaya, and cayenne pepper, from which IBM researcher and professional chef Florian Pinel developed a mind-blowing Caymanian parfait. While the IBM dessert tasted better, it was also insanely elaborate, so we’ll call it a draw. â€"Allison P. Davis
Caramelized bananas (bottom layer)
1½ Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. molasses
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1 pinch nutmeg
1 cup very ripe bananas (approx. 1½ bananas), peeled and diced into ½-inch pieces
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. milk
- Heat butter and molasses in a saucepan over medium heat.
- Add vanilla extract and nutmeg, then bananas. (Adjust nutmeg as needed: You should be able to taste just a hint of it.) Cook for 2 minutes, stirring regularly with a spatula.
- Add milk, stir, and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat.
- Pass mixture through a sieve. In a blender, process half of the banana chunks with the liquid until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Mix in the rest of the banana and let cool 30 minutes.
- Pour into verrines and refrigerate at least another 30 minutes. When chilled, mixture should solidify.
Coconut and lime pastry cream (middle layer)
3 egg yolks
¼ cup light brown sugar
1 Tbsp. flour, sifted
¾ cup milk
1 Tbsp. lime juice
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. coconut flakes
1 tsp. butter, diced
- In a bowl, whisk egg yolks with half of the sugar for 1 to 2 minutes. Add flour and mix.
- In a small saucepan over high heat, bring milk, lime juice, coconut flakes, and remaining sugar to a simmer. Remove from heat and let steep 5 minutes.
- Process milk mixture in a blender and pass it through a conical sieve, pressing with a ladle to force all the liquid out of the coconut residue. Return liquid to saucepan and bring back to a simmer.
- Slowly pour heated milk over egg yolk mixture to temper it, whisking constantly. Return to saucepan and bubble gently for 2 minutes to thicken the mixture, still whisking constantly. Transfer to a container, mix in the butter, and let cool 15 minutes.
- Pour over the cooled banana mixture in verrines and refrigerate at least 30 minutes. When chilled, the mixture should no longer be liquid.
Papaya and orange salad (top layer)
½ cup orange juice
1½ Tbsp. butter, diced
1 pinch cayenne pepper
¾ cup ripe papaya, diced into ¼-inch pieces
- In a saucepan over high heat, reduce orange juice to 2 tablespoons.
- Whisk in butter and cayenne pepper. Adjust pepper as needed: You should be able to taste just a hint of it.
- Add papaya and remove from heat. Transfer to a container and let cool 15 minutes.
- Pour on top of pastry cream and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.
Plantain chips (garnish)
corn oil, for deep-frying
1 plantain, very cold
salt
- In a deep fryer, heat oil to 375° F.
- Meanwhile, peel plantain, then cut in half. Using a mandoline, slice each half lengthwise, very thinly (you want long strips, not circular chips). Slices should be just thick enough so they don’t break. Cut each strip lengthwise into two thinner strips.
- Fry strips in small batches until golden brown, then drain on paper towels and let cool.
- Fry cooled strips a second time for about 10 seconds to make them crispy. Drain on a paper towel and season with salt.
- Place two strips in each verrine just before serving.
No comments:
Post a Comment